Graphite Low Friction Coatings - Lubrication For Fasteners, Nuts and Bolts

Graphite low friction coatings for fasteners, nuts and bolts? The answer is yes. And for a number of reasons.

Begin with installation. Did you know most applied torque goes into overcoming friction? That is right. In the absence of lubrication, clamping pressures can be lost, measurably. Not to mention the difficulty in installation. Or the potential damaging torque applied. All of which can initiate issues such as loosening, galling or early wear, or something catastrophic, like bolt shearing.

Is it the fault of the fastener? Not necessarily. So, the next time you consider changing to a more expensive fastener grade, consider lubrication instead. Friction will be lower, as will be torsional stress.

Dry film lubricants like graphite can play a significant role when vibrations are strong, dynamic loads are high. Without, friction will be higher, failure imminent.

Consider microscopic movement under these "oscillating" conditions. More than tangential movement, surfaces can lose contact in each cycle. The result can be a devastating, hammering effect, impact fatigue. Though all these effects can be reduced with carbon graphite.

Similar to molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) and tungsten disulfide (WS2), the structure of carbon graphite is also one of a layered lattice, a hexagonal form with strong covalent bonds. In a normal air atmosphere condition, where metal fasteners are similar material, lubrication can be exceptional. (When nut and bolt are dissimilar metal, an electrical potential exists; consequently, MoS2 or WS2 are better suited. Since graphite can be associated with stimulating galvanic corrosion.)

So, next time you experience failure of your fasteners. First, check for lubrication. And the next time you design with nuts and bolts, do not forget the lubrication. Benefits are many using graphite low friction coatings.

Want more information? Need help with your surface engineering? Stop searching. Start finding.

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William Gunnar, degreed scientist, researcher, engineer, and friend, has helped thousands of 'best of class' product designers and equipment manufacturers -- for nearly 20 years now -- surface engineer with coatings for success.

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Loosening Fasteners - Various Techniques For Stubborn Nuts and Bolts

Fasteners can give you fits sometimes. Usually they stay tight and in place until you want to remove them. Sometimes they come loose because of vibration. And, sometimes you want them to come loose and they just won't budge. That becomes a problem because a frozen nut or bolt can sheer off, round off or break your tools.

There are several ways to loosen a nut or bolt when it just doesn't want to cooperate. Depending on the situation, you might want to try all of these to get that piece of hardware to move in the direction you want.

Before we begin, let's review the very basics; it's right (clockwise) to tighten, and left (counter-clockwise) to loosen, unless it's a left-handed thread. Look for an "L" on the top of the stud or bolt to identify left-handed threads.

The methods below are applicable to nuts and bolts used in metal and plastic applications, and not nails, screws or staples used in wood. Also, keep in mind that it may be necessary to work both ends of the fastener with a tool to hold it in place or turn it.

Here are the techniques in the order that I would apply them:

Apply penetrating oil to the connection that is frozen or rusted in place.

Tap sharply on the nut or bolt with a hammer, taking care not to damage the nut or bolt head.

Tighten a bit at first and then loosen.

Use an impact wrench - electric, pneumatic or manual.

Heat the fitting with a torch (if there is no danger of fire or damaging other material).

Whack the far end of your wrench with a mallet to act as an impact wrench.

Use a longer wrench or apply a "cheater bar" to get better leverage.

Cut the fasteners out and install new ones.

If your efforts result in a rounded over nut or bolt, use a pair of vise grips to get a grip.

Note: when using a torch to heat up a fitting, make certain there are no flammable materials anywhere nearby. If you have fuel nearby, move it far away and upwind. Also, use a torch only with adequate ventilation and make certain it doesn't burn material adjacent to where you're working. Check twice for fire, explosion and burn hazards, because it too late once it happens.

Clair Schwan is a do-it-yourselfer who enjoys building, maintaining and repairing things around the house using hand tools, power tools and heavy equipment. He believes in safety first so there are no regrets in the end. See his adventures in self directed living at http://www.frugal-living-freedom.com where the motto is, "...living well, and well within your means..."

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